We arrived in New Zealand a week earlier than planned and treated ourselves to a nice hotel stay in Auckland CBD. We moved from shorts and t-shirts back to long trousers, fleeces, and rain coats and dodged lots of showers but have loved it! Auckland CBD is an easy place to explore on foot (despite all the roadworks). There are lots of old elegant buildings tucked among the skyscrappers, interesting histories noted on pavements and seats if you take the time to look for them, and of course, lots of boats – it is afterall known as the city of sails. We’ve admired beautiful historic yachts at the heritage landing, watched the America’s Cup yachts do their turns in the harbour, and spotted the super yacht Bliss owned by the founder of Snapchat ($200mill apparently!!!).
The Maritime Museum was an interesting escape from the rain with displays from the earliest Polynesian outrigger canoes up to the Americas Cup and Round the World races.
We took a ferry across to Waiheke Island one day and took the Hop On, Hop Off bus around so we could try some of the wineries and breweries out – as it is out of season we found alot only opened from Thursday to Sunday (and of course we went on a Wednesday!!).
After a week in the CBD we moved out to the lovely suburb of Parnell with its old painted wooden houses with wide verandahs, good eateries, independent shops and lots of walks (albeit hilly). From here, we could walk to the Winter Gardens and Fernery. They have just been renovated and the glass houses strengthened (against earthquakes) – they look lovely – one is a cold house and the other a hot house, both with beautiful displays.
The fernery was deliciously cool and verdant and echoed with the sounds of frogs croaking! We also took a walk around the duck pond – very odd seeing tiny ducklings in October but of course it’s spring over here.
We also spent nearly 4 hours exploring the Auckland War Memorial Museum which has some really good informative displays about volcanoes (Auckland sits on an active volcanic area!) and how New Zealand was formed, Maori culture, nature, and the wars that New Zealand has been involved in. Rather poignantly, there was a Mumford listed on the WW1 memorial wall and a rather striking wall that was an empty plaque with the words “Let these panels never be filled.”
On a lighter note, we also met Peter and Barbara – two T-Rex skeletons on display in the ticketing area – pay up or else!!!!!
We also took the opportunity to visit the Holy Trinity Cathedral in Parnell. It’s fairly new (1973) and is beautiful inside – very simple, clean lines with stunning stained glass windows. Next door is the equally stunning St Mary’s Church, built in 1886. Up until 1982, it was across the road to the cathedral and was not being used so much. Then they decided to move it! It came across the street in one piece with the glass windows still in situ! It’s a stunning gothic wooden church made from Kauri wood from New Zealand, which gives it a lovely warm red glow. Both buildings are in use and have some lovely volunteers to tell you about them.
We walked to Judges Bay one day, past the tiny St Stephens Chapel where the constitution of the Anglican Church was signed in 1857 and where we met a lovely man and his 3 young boys cleaning headstones and repairing the fences in the cemetary, on down to Parnell Baths and back up the hill to the rose gardens – sadly it was a bit early but in the summer they must be stunning.
